Watches with unique features and eye-catching designs have always captivated us, haven’t they? As watch enthusiasts, we tend to have a special appreciation for timepieces that go beyond just telling the time—they offer real functionality.
Lately, people have been wearing watches with intricate markings on the bezel, the outer ring around the watch face. However, when asked what those markings or scales represent, most can't explain their purpose.
It might surprise you that a watch can do much more than just tell time. From calculating speed and distance to tracking how long you have left on a parking meter, a watch can be a powerful tool. But to unlock these features, you first need to understand the bezel and all the different scales.
Understanding Bezels and All Its Different Scales
A bezel is a simple yet highly effective feature that enhances your watch’s functionality. It allows you to perform various tasks, like timing a dive to ensure you stay within safe limits or calculating the duration of a flight.
You can also use it to monitor your fuel levels or, in more specialized cases, measure the distance of incoming fire. Additionally, a bezel can help you track the time in different countries, like Japan. This feature turns your watch into a versatile tool.
Following are the different bezel scales to help you understand how to use them for specific purposes.
1. The Time-Elapsed, Count-Up Bezel (Zero-to-Sixty Scale)
The Time-Elapsed, Count-Up Bezel (Zero-to-Sixty Scale) is one of the simplest and most commonly used bezel types. It was designed to measure how much time has passed. This bezel was first introduced in the early 1950s with the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, often called the "diver’s bezel."
The scale usually ranges from zero to sixty, representing the minutes in an hour. The first 15 or 20 minutes are marked with one-minute increments, while the rest are marked in five-minute intervals.
How to use it: To use this bezel, simply align the zero marker with the minute hand. As time passes, you can read the elapsed time on the bezel, up to one hour. For divers, this is crucial because it helps track how long they’ve been underwater and how much air they have left. The bezel only turns in one direction, ensuring that even if it’s accidentally bumped, it will only shorten the dive, keeping the diver safe.
Beyond diving, this bezel is useful for everyday tasks, like tracking the time left before your flight departs or how long it takes to meet someone. The Oris Divers Sixty-Five and the Omega Seamaster are popular watches featuring the time-elapsed count-up bezel.
2. The Time-Elapsed Countdown Bezel (Sixty-to-Zero Scale)
The Time-Elapsed Countdown Bezel (Sixty-to-Zero Scale) is essentially the reverse of the count-up bezel. Instead of counting forward, it counts down from sixty to zero, helping you keep track of how much time is left.
Although it works similarly to the count-up bezel, it counts backward. Some people question its necessity, arguing that the minute hand already tracks time. However, with a countdown bezel, you don't need to remember when you started—making it more convenient.
How to use it: Simply align the bezel’s zero marker with the minute hand, and you’ll easily track the remaining time for any task or event. It’s a useful tool for reminding yourself of how much time is left, whether it’s for a meeting, cooking, or any other activity.
3. The Tachymeter
It is one of the most common scales found on a bezel, especially on watches with a chronograph feature. Louis Moinet invented the chronograph in 1816. Interestingly, the chronograph was originally designed for astronomical purposes to measure the movement of stars and planets.
A tachymeter helps the wearer calculate speed based on travel time and distance covered. Typically located on the bezel or the outer edge of the dial, it has a scale that starts at 500 and decreases to 60.
This logarithmic scale simplifies speed calculations by using a formula:
Tachymeter reading = 3600 / t (where "t" is the time in seconds).
How to use it: Start the chronograph when your subject begins moving. Once they reach the endpoint, stop the chronograph. The second hand will point to a number on the bezel, giving you the average speed in units per hour, whether in miles or kilometers.
You can also adjust for different distances, like half-miles or smaller units. However, the tachymeter only works for short timeframes, typically between 10 and 60 seconds, though some extend to 70 seconds.
4. GMT – Second or Third Time Zone
The GMT bezel is a must-have feature for frequent travelers, as it allows you to easily track time in different time zones, typically starting with Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). It’s not just a complicated feature for show—it’s a practical tool that simplifies keeping up with time across the globe.
By adjusting the GMT hand on your watch, you can easily keep track of various time zones, ensuring you're always on schedule no matter where you are. This function became essential for pilots and anyone who regularly communicates or travels across time zones.
How to use it: Set the GMT hand to the current GMT. To calculate the time in other zones, simply add or subtract hours based on the locations' differences. Some watches even allow tracking up to three time zones with additional markings on the dial.
5. Compass
A compass bezel is handy for outdoor enthusiasts like hikers or campers. It helps you navigate without needing a separate compass. Interestingly, even a regular analog watch can serve as a basic compass.
In the Northern Hemisphere, you can align the hour hand with the sun, and the midpoint between that and 12 o’clock will indicate your north-south line. However, a watch with a compass bezel makes things much easier and more accurate.
How to use it: First, ensure your watch is set to standard time, not Daylight Saving Time. In the Northern Hemisphere, point the hour hand at the sun, then rotate the bezel so the south mark lines up halfway between the hour hand and 12 o’clock. In the Southern Hemisphere, use the north mark instead.
6. Telemeter
To gauge how far enemy fire is, a telemeter scale helps you measure the distance between you and an event you can see and hear, like a lightning strike during a storm or even in military settings. This scale converts the time it takes for sound to travel after a visible event into a distance reading.
How to use it: Start the chronograph when you see the event, such as a lightning flash, and stop it as soon as you hear the sound, like thunder. The reading on the telemeter will tell you the distance between you and the event.
7. Slide Rule
The slide rule bezel is one of the most complicated yet fascinating features on certain watches. Popularized by Breitling with their Navitimer collection, this scale allows you to perform various mathematical calculations, like conversions, distance measurements, and more, without using the watch hands.
It uses two logarithmic scales to simplify complex math and was a valuable tool for pilots before electronic calculators existed.
How to use it: Align the number you want to multiply on the rotating bezel with a fixed marker, then find your second multiplier on the outer scale. The result appears opposite it on the inner scale. While useful, understanding logarithmic scales is essential to maximizing this feature.
Conclusion
Understanding bezels and their different scales can greatly enhance your watch's functionality. Each bezel scale serves a unique purpose, from tracking time and distance to navigating or calculating speed. Whether you're a diver, traveler, or simply an enthusiast, knowing how to use these scales can make your timepiece even more valuable.
At Precious Timepieces, we specialize in helping you find the perfect watch with the right features to match your lifestyle. Whether you're looking for a GMT, tachymeter, or dive bezel, we can guide you to the best choice.
If you have any questions or want to learn more about our collection, contact us today!
